:: COLLAPSE TOP ::
Method to the madness
There is a method to the madness. The insight that keeps us going is that you have to get lost to find your path. Finding new paths entails testing and discarding old patterns.
North of Kensington Gardens 51.511541 -0.187894 http://mentalpropell.myshopify.com/products/method-to-the-madness-calm-like-you
Body type
From hand-me-down suits to nice off-the-rack suits. He kept trying to convince himself that he was a standard nordic body type. But the thought had been planted.
Body type 51.516844 -0.184370 http://mentalpropell.myshopify.com/products/body-type
Ready to work
A calm, atmosphere. Mostly masculine, large workspace in the middle of the shop where the team of cutters, tailors, pressers and other specialists are working.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670 http://mentalpropell.myshopify.com/products/copy-of-calm-like-you-ready-to-work
Rockstar
This is probably where the rockstar aspect of Richards business became clear. The pattern is actually unique to each customer and becomes a kind of DNA record of who we were.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Assistance and Guidance
From the first chat through to the final fitting, the customer is constantly involved in the process; choosing style, patterns and details with our assistance and if required, guidance
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Idiosyncrasies of posture
They are a great team. You sense they know each other so well that words are superfluous in many contexts. Numbers that convert into our indvidual idiosyncrasies of posture.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Supermarine Spitfire shoulders
The paper patterns had a technical, freeform, handdrawn look reminicent of top secret plans for the next generation biplane fighter.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
A very Swedish dream
The line from the hip to the shoulder. The twist in the collar. The narrow line from the waist to the ankle. The images of Cambridge in the 1930s flashed through his mind.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
What tailor-made really means
He wore the 42 inch blockcoat with pride. The measures came hard and fast. He realized that each question he had asked could not be answered before he had made up his mind.
13 Savile Row 51.511303 -0.140670
What guys do
Because it is there. Because it is what guys do. Because we have been on our best behaviour for hours, passing through customs, moving through Saville Row and getting fitted.
Green Park 51.506194 -0.141826
Time to learn from your mistakes
I have cut you a lot of slack in our time, but this time there will be no compromises, no slow smiles and casual excuses. OK?
Towards Islington 51.523382 -0.097744
Not suited for real life
This sure seems a lot more fun in the movies than in real life. A tight geometrical trap is not a good place to run from. Good thing it was only a rehearsal.
Towards Islington 51.523382 -0.097744
Praise indeed
Some people have the ability to skirt the issues, overcome obstacles and treat it all as just a part of the great hopscotch of life. He does it better than anyone I know.
North of Kensington Gardens 51.511541 -0.187894
Oh England, my lionheart
You read me Shakespeare on the rolling Thames // That old river Poet that never ever ends // Our thumping hearts hold the ravens in // Keep the Tower from tumbling (Kate Bush)
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Delightfully discrete
The small dressing room had seen a lot of tantrums, screaming and cajoling. A good place for reflection, all told.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Handle with care
Richard uses no labels (apart from the discrete number on the inside pocket - for replacement parts only, you understand) but the suits have a unique Richardesque quality.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Material selection – dark gray 18 ounce worsted wool
A rough and strong texture and stand up to the conditions above the arctic circle in the winter, wrinkle with personality and attitude and look great on screen as well as on body.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
A lot of work ahead
From the paper patterns the bespoke cloth was chalked around, cut and basted together. The inlays spoke of faith in his ambitions (and desire) to remain slim and lithe.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Changing the style, adapting the pattern, adjusting the line
The master craftsman and the fledgling sartorialist did their best to make the right decision. We decided to pinch about one eigth of an inch over the shoulder.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
The long term view
He rather liked the thought of these measurements living in the basement of Saville Row #13 for the next 60 years of so.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Observe, Orient, Decide, Act
The OODA loop was applicable at so many levels at the same time.
OODA 51.499288 -0.179666
Static morning thoughts
'Second to the right, and straight on till morning'. But that was just to impress Wendy. They only found Neverland because it was out looking for them.
Static Morning 51.511387 -0.158587
Strange patterns
He was a firm believer in the 'decicive moment', but the strange patterns that kept В occurring worried him. Probably a good time to get off the streets.
Jay Mews 51.500929 -0.178764
Expert to expert
At this stage in the process he realized that Richard was relying on his reactions, thoughts and desires to make the next decision. The thought was sobering.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
1 inch higher. At least.
We are talking about 18 oz worsted wool. Very heavy, will wrinkle if we let it fall over the shoe. How high up are you comfortable with?
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Yes
Higher. Tighter. No belt. This is where it usually goes wrong. No. A few millimeters more?
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Fledgeling no more
The final fitting. Everything is almost, but not quite right. Great line in the back, beautiful line along chest. But the shoulders and trousers are still being tweaked.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
He’d rather live in dreams
He always hated shopping. But this shop felt different somehow.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Unknown quantity
Any time you decide to deviate from the usual you end up somewhere magical.
Unknown quantity 51.511171 -0.115563
A lot like work
Two more for tea. Poison ivy and shrubbery. Disjointed pieces of TV culture found good reception down in the middle of London.
A lot like work 51.516677 -0.184935
Observers and participants
Observing an event defines the outcome. The one basic piece of scientific theory that always made sense to him.
Observers and participants 51.510138 -0.150800
Eternal afternoons of 1972
Waiting for the next fitting they tried to recapture the eternal afternoons of 1972.
Eternal Afternoons of 1972 51.516776 -0.184355
Still waters
He shrunk back under the steady gaze of the policeman walking in the opposite direction.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
The difference is clear
On the park benches the drunks were singing softly.
The difference is clear 51.504570 -0.185427
The last time he saw Richard
The bag felt heavier. Sweat gathered in the small of his back. The waiting cars inched impatiently forwards.
The last time he saw Richard 51.504916 -0.126473
Starting all over
Soon the suits would be ready and the new dresscode dogma would kick into action. He felt that the winter was coming.
Starting all over 51.505956 -0.141577
Final alterations
After the final alterations was made the hand position of the finished buttonholes and and the material for the inside silk was decided. Gunmetal blue for the inside silk.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Handover
Final fitting - as Richard said it: "I cannot do any more. The suits are now your responsibility". The five lines are perfect, the lenght is just so and they felt eager to hit Finland this fall.
13 Saville Row 51.511303 -0.140670
Another way of doing things
You always know the one drink too many by the metallic taste it leaves on your tongue.
Another way of doing things 51.499631 -0.183583
Richards book
Berating a short, scruffy, Mediterranean-looking man, he barked: "No, you berk! I want it like this". The atmosphere was electric, masculine, loud and aggressive. I liked it.
Richards book 51.494932 -0.179859
Edge case
Amazing to be back in suits. The five days in white was fun, but never again.
Edge case 51.494932 -0.179859
It is official
We are now ready for our next projects, whereever they may take us. Dresscode has now grown up.
It is official 51.502598 -0.181119There is a method to the madness. The insight that keeps us going is that you have to get lost to find your path. Finding new paths entails testing and discarding old patterns.